Gunpla for Beginners: How to Build Your First Gundam - Part 1

Gunpla grades and scales explained

 

A grade identifies a product line with its own approach to detail, engineering, and assembly. It is a useful guide, but difficulty varies between individual kits. A larger model is not automatically harder to build.

 

Scale compares the model with the fictional full-size machine. For the same mobile suit, 1/100 is larger than 1/144, and 1/60 is larger again. Two different mobile suits at the same scale can still have different heights.

 

Grade or line	Typical scale	What to expect
Entry Grade or EG	1/144	Simple assembly and tool-free part removal on the Gundam kits.
High Grade or HG	Usually 1/144	Broad choice of designs and an approachable first build.
Real Grade or RG	1/144	Detailed engineering with small components.
Master Grade or MG	1/100	Larger parts, internal detail, and a longer project.
Master Grade Extreme or MGEX	1/100	Premium features built around a specific technical theme.
Perfect Grade or PG	1/60	Large display models with extensive detail and assembly.
RE/100 and Full Mechanics	Usually 1/100	Separate lines that balance larger size with streamlined construction.
Super Deformed or SD	Non-scale	Stylized proportions with oversized heads and compact bodies.
Master Grade SD or MGSD	Non-scale	SD proportions with more elaborate engineering and articulation.

 

Real Grade and Master Grade

RG packs detailed structures and small parts into a 1/144-scale model. MG usually provides a larger 1/100-scale build with internal mechanical detail and extensive articulation. Both can be rewarding next steps after an EG or HG kit. Compare the specific kit's features instead of treating the grade as a fixed skill requirement.

Master Grade versions and premium lines

Ver.2.0 identifies a revised version of a particular model, not a separate grade. Ver.Ka refers to releases designed or supervised by Hajime Katoki. Their styling and markings vary by kit; check the contents before assuming water-slide decals are included.

MGEX stands for Master Grade Extreme and emphasizes a particular feature, such as lighting or metallic presentation. Perfect Grade (PG) Gundam kits are 1/60 scale, including PG Unleashed releases. Their size, cost, and longer assembly make them projects to consider once you know what you enjoy building.

Other lines you may see

RE/100 and Full Mechanics are distinct product lines, often offering a 1/100-scale model with a different construction approach from MG. Standard SD kits can be enjoyable short projects, while MGSD adds much more detail and a more involved build. Neither SD nor MGSD follows a conventional scale ratio.

You may also find older First Grade (FG) and Advanced Grade (AG) 1/144 kits. Their simpler construction and articulation differ from modern EG and HG releases, so check the individual kit rather than choosing by name alone.

Premium Bandai, or P-Bandai, is a sales channel rather than a grade. Its releases can belong to HG, MG, RG, and other lines. Release arrangements vary by product and region; the P-Bandai label does not tell you how difficult the kit is to build.

 

Essential Gunpla tools for beginners

For a typical HG kit, start with plastic-model nippers, a sanding stick or suitable glass file, and good lighting. You can add other tools as you learn. A large tool collection is not necessary for your first build.

 

• Hobby nippers: Use cutters made for plastic model parts. Follow the tool's limits, especially with delicate single-blade nippers, thick gates, and clear plastic.
• Sanding sticks or a glass file: Smooth leftover nubs without removing surrounding detail. A small selection of progressively finer abrasives is more useful than one very coarse file.
• Tweezers: Help position small stickers and pick up tiny components.
• Cutting mat and small tray: Protect the work surface and keep loose parts from disappearing
• Part separator: Can help open an incorrect assembly gently. Stop if the plastic starts to bend or stress.
• Hobby knife, optional: Useful for controlled trimming, but beginners can use sanding tools instead. Always cut away from your fingers and body, with the part supported safely.

You can find Gunpla tools and modeling supplies at The Gundam Place Store. Choose tools that suit the kit and your experience, and follow their handling instructions.

How to build Gunpla step by step

Step 1 Set up your workspace

Use a stable, well-lit surface with room for the manual and runners. Keep a tray nearby for the small number of parts you are currently using. Clear plastic scraps regularly, and keep sharp tools and small pieces away from young children and pets.

Step 2 Check the box contents

Compare the runners, stickers, and other components with the parts list in the instruction manual. Leave the runners labeled and organized. Some kits include unused parts, so extra pieces at the end do not necessarily mean you missed a step.

 

Step 3 Learn the runner and part codes

The diagrams identify parts by runner letter and number, such as A12 or B7. Match both before cutting. Pay attention to arrows, part orientation, and symbols for repeated steps or left and right versions. Many manuals include English, but the diagrams are the main guide.

Step 4 Remove only the parts you need

For standard runners, use the two-cut technique. First, cut through each gate a short distance away from the part. Support the part as you release the final gate. Then trim the remaining nub closer, leaving a small amount for careful cleanup instead of squeezing the blade into the finished surface.

This approach reduces the chance of stress marks and gouges. Only remove parts by hand when the kit's instructions specify tool-free removal. Avoid pulling or twisting parts off standard runners.

Step 5 Clean up nub marks

Use light pressure with a sanding stick or suitable file, checking the surface frequently. If sanding is needed, a progression such as 800, 1000, then 2000 grit can help refine the finish. Start with the least aggressive abrasive that removes the remaining material effectively.

Avoid sanding nearby panel lines or rounded edges flat. Clear, plated, and coated parts need extra care because normal sanding can visibly damage their finish. Some color variation can remain even after the raised nub is gone; removing more plastic will not necessarily fix it.

Step 6 Assemble one section at a time

Follow the manual's order, usually working through sections such as the torso, head, arms, legs, and equipment. Align the pegs and sockets before pressing pieces together. Apply steady, gentle pressure. If a part resists, stop and check its number, orientation, and remaining nub material.

Keep joints in the position shown in the instructions while assembling them. Do not force a connection simply because the pieces look similar.

Step 7 Apply markings and test the pose

Add stickers at the stage shown in the manual, especially when a later part would block access. Tweezers help with eye sensors and small markings. Identify whether the kit includes adhesive stickers, dry transfers, or water-slide decals; each uses a different application method.

Once the model is complete, move its joints gently and find a stable pose. If you use a display stand, check that its connector and weight capacity suit the model. Keep the finished build away from direct sunlight and handle delicate antennas and accessories carefully.

Common Gunpla mistakes to avoid

•  Cutting every part off at once: Keeping parts on their labeled runners makes similar pieces easier to identify.

•  Cutting flush on the first snip: Leave space on the first cut, then work closer during cleanup.

•  Forcing tight connections: Check the instructions and fit before applying more pressure.

•  Sanding too aggressively: Remove the nub gradually and preserve the shape around it.

•  Treating all marking sheets the same: Check the manual before peeling, rubbing, or soaking a marking.

•  Trying every finishing technique immediately: A clean straight build is a useful first goal. Add one new technique at a time.

How to panel line Gunpla for beginners

Panel lining adds contrast to recessed lines so details on the armor are easier to see. It is optional. Your first Gundam model can look good with its molded colors and included markings alone.

For a first attempt, choose a fine-tip panel-lining marker intended for the plastic and surface you are working on. Fine-tip markers, pour-type markers, and bottled enamel washes are different products with different application and cleanup requirements.

 

Check the plastic and marker instructions

Check the manual or runner markings for the plastic type, such as PS or ABS, and read the exact marker's restrictions. Some inks and solvents can damage ABS or painted surfaces. Do not use a product where its manufacturer prohibits it. Testing on a spare runner is useful, but it does not override those restrictions.

 

Add a small amount of ink

On a compatible surface, trace the recessed line lightly with the marker. Start with an easily accessible section and use as little ink as you need. Keep liquid from collecting in joints, seams, or stressed connections. Gray can create a subtle effect on white armor; black gives stronger contrast.

 

Clean up according to the product

Follow the product's guidance on drying time and cleanup. For example, the GM01 fine-tip Gundam Marker can be cleaned from suitable unpainted surfaces with a rubber eraser. Other products require a different method.

Do not assume rubbing alcohol or paint thinner is safe for every marker, plastic, or finish. Use only a compatible cleanup method, work gently, and avoid saturating the model. Let the ink dry fully before handling that area or applying any compatible finishing product.

 

Frequently asked questions about Gunpla

Do Gundam model kits need glue or paint

Most modern Gunpla use snap-fit, color-molded parts, so glue and paint are usually unnecessary for basic assembly. Painting is optional, and some details may use stickers. Always follow the instructions for your specific kit, particularly with older releases or specialty parts.

 

Can I build Gunpla without tools

Entry Grade Gundam kits designed with touch gates allow part removal by hand. Most standard HG, RG, MG, and PG kits require nippers. Do not twist pieces off a runner unless the instructions specifically allow hand removal.

 

Is High Grade or Real Grade better for a beginner

HG is our usual recommendation for a first build because it offers a more approachable assembly experience. RG includes smaller, more detailed components. Both are usually 1/144 scale, so a similar finished size does not mean the same building process.

 

How long does a first Gunpla build take

Build time depends on the kit, your pace, and how much cleanup or detailing you choose to do. Set aside an uninterrupted session, then stop at a completed section if you need a break. There is no benefit to rushing your first model.

Do I need to watch Gundam before building a kit

No. You can choose a design you enjoy and follow its instructions without knowing the story. The anime can add context later, but it is not required to start building.

 

Start your first Gundam build

Choose an EG or HG kit, prepare a comfortable workspace, and take the instructions one section at a time. Clean cuts and careful assembly will make a bigger difference to your first project than buying every finishing tool at once.

Explore Gundam model kits at The Gundam Place Store, or visit our store in Cumming, Georgia, in the Metro Atlanta area, for help choosing your first kit and tools.

This completes Part 1 of our Gunpla beginner guide. Part 2 will continue the guide as you take the next steps with your builds.